Måneskin, moonlight and magic clothes: what happened at Gucci Cosmogonie

Alessandro Michele took over a mystical Italian castle for his latest hit show

If there’s one thing Alessandro Michele knows how to do, it’s stage – and although the pandemic put an end to that for a few years, the big Gucci production is back, baby. After landing in Los Angeles in late 2021, where he convinced Miranda July, Macaulay Culkin, Steve Lacy and more to hit the trail, he last night took over a mystical 13th-century hilltop castle in the Italian region of Puglia. . Invitation lost in the publication? We’ve rounded up everything you need to know about home magic Cosmogony Pin up.

Literally! Upon arrival in Puglia, guests received a star bearing their name, along with a certificate detailing how to locate theirs in the cosmos (which I did immediately). Not only was it a super cute and very special touch, but it’s also for a good cause – the pile of money Gucci spent on them goes straight to a non-profit organization called TESS who’s been surveying the skies for new stars and planets.

…including Michele muse Dakota Johnson, Paul Mescal and his new porn ‘stain, Eurovision icons Måneskin, uber-glam Jodie Turner-Smith, Jeremy O. Harris, Francis Bourgeois and Lana Del fucking Rey (!!!) No sign of However, Jared Leto happily claps his hands from the sideline this time.

According to Michele, the fact that the (almost) complete Super Flower Blood Moon meets the timing of the lunar eclipse that took place at night was pure coincidence, as he explained that things before the show had not been planned. in this way. Perched on a hilltop in the middle of the Apulian countryside, Castel Del Monte – built by King Frederick II in the 1240s – was bathed in the most magical cotton candy-colored light as the sun set. was sleeping and the guests were taking their places. The historic monument itself is steeped in mysticism and theories as to its purpose, with its odd symmetry leading historians to theorize about its links to astronomy. The show kicked off as the sun dipped below the horizon and the huge orange moon rose in the sky.

The collection itself was a typical Gucci riot of mishmash dressings that confronted eras and references with wild abandon. Dramatic evening wear that swept over the models as they walked was finished with stiff ruffles at the neck, 70s David Bowie-esque jumpsuits in geometric prints with flirtatious cutouts were paired with wide-brimmed hats, while sequined and beaded tops with hoods seemed to reference the type of chain mail knights wore in battle. Distressed denim jeans and chunky, oversized jackets were dotted with beads and sequins in constellation-like patterns, with bold faux fur coats with gigantic shoulders and nipped-in waists also featured heavily. The final look, worn by Lily McMenamy, was an inky blue velvet dress also dotted with twinkling star formations, with the Castel del Monte behind her lit up with its own shimmering galaxy.

Michele apparently has a thing for strawberries this season, as he sent a number of cute leather versions down the runway in the form of bags and handbags – some models even had tiny tattoos transferred to the arms and face. Elsewhere, open bags threatened to spill their contents – namely, Gucci beauty and fragrances – as part of a must-not-try look on the Tube. Jeweled headbands and huge matching earrings dangled from the ears, while some models were threaded from ear to mouth with strands of pearls and beads. Particularly eclectic flourishes came via more faux fur – this time in the form of fluffy muffs, as well as shaved heads bearing the Gucci double-G monogram.

Instead, Gucci models were known to be very young and very thin, until last year’s Los Angeles show when Michele sent her very first curvaceous models down the catwalk. With some brands also launching larger models for a season before returning to business as usual, it looks like it intends to diversify its runway permanently. A number of models with bodies above the tiny sample sizes typical of fashion have joined the Cosmogony line-up, and there were also a few older models in the mix. There may be a long way to go in terms of representation, but designers like Michele are clearly listening.

Despite breaking his ankle during Eurovision last weekend, Damiano managed to hobble on stage to perform with Måneskin, with the whole group dressed in Gucci satin and sequins, obvs. Don’t get it all Daily mail title on that, but Jodie Turner-Smith was luminescent as she danced on a catwalk with Paul Mescal throughout the night, but perhaps the biggest highlight was seeing Lana Del Rey sync to the lips for his life with “Summertime Sadness” when DJ Mark Ronson fell on his set. A surreal and brilliant moment if ever there was one.

Elizabeth J. Harless